ΤRAVEL ITINERARIES

[EN]  “Hidden Greece: where to stay and what to do away from the beaten track”
As early projections suggest that 2022 could be a bumper season, with tourism reaching 80-90% of pre-Covid levels, maybe this is the year to discover an out-of-the-way beach or an underrated resort, to recharge those sun-depleted batteries far from the madding holiday-deprived crowds, or to embark on a scenic mountain trek. The well-know English newspaper “Guardian” suggets to its reders to explore Greece’s wealth of secret beaches, mountains, sleepy islands and tempting tavernas, by visting six destinations away from the summer crowd, with lots of information about sight-seeing and tips about where to stay, where to eat and how to get there. Here are some main points for ech spot:

1. Alonissos, northern Sporades – Aegean Islands
The pine-clad island of Alonissos 1in the north Aegean – overshadowed by its better-known neighbours Skopelos and Skiathos – was catapulted into international consciousness in 1992 through the establishment of the Alonissos national marine park, the first in Greece and still the largest protected marine area in Europe. Its waters shelter the critically endangered Mediterranean monk seal, plus dolphins, whales and rare seabirds. There are daily boat trips to the park’s 28 islands and outcrops… The latest novelty is the first-ever Greek underwater museum, a perfectly preserved shipwreck dating from 425BC, which lies on the seabed beside the island of Peristera. The ship carried 4,000 amphorae, or wine urns, that can still be seen by recreational scuba divers who come with a guide – unusually, as other similar wrecks in Greece are off-limits for fear of theft. Non-divers can explore the shipwreck virtually via the museum website. (more…)

2. Kythnos, western Cyclades – Aegean Islands
Only three hours by ferry from Athens’ Piraeus harbour, yet 30 years behind in temperament, Kythnos, with its off-grid simplicity and numerous unspoilt beaches, will awaken the inner hedonist in even the most cynical of tourists. This island still feels like Greece as it used to be: it didn’t have a credit card network until six years ago, and rented sunbeds and umbrellas have yet to arrive on its beaches (more…)

3. Astypalea, Dodecanese – Aegean Islands
Bang in the middle of the Aegean, this butterfly-shaped island belongs politically to the Italianate Dodecanese, but it forms a cultural bridge with the Cyclades. Not only Astypalea is more whitewashed than the popular neighbouring islands of Rhodes and Kos, but its eight photogenic windmills also evoke the aesthetic of Mykonos. On the other hand, the 13th-century citadel in the capital, Chora, is unquestionably Venetian and, as a former part of Mussolini’s Mediterranean Empire, Astypalea has incorporated risottos and pasta – such as makarounes, a homemade, thick spaghetti – into its cuisine.
The island is thinking progressively in terms of sustainability, with many private-public funded projects. An as Astypalea is the last stop on every ferry route, the beaches are always uncrowded, and package tours are nonexistent. (more…)

4. Gialova, Peloponnese peninsula
Most Greeks would struggle to find Gialova on a map. The small holiday village in the south-western Peloponnese is a few miles south of the Costa Navarino mega resort – which does get a flash of recognition – and shares the same coast and regional attractions, but at a fraction of the cost. Gialova ticks all the boxes. It’s walking distance from the Gialova lagoon and nature reserve, one of the prime bird habitats in Greece, where specialist guides offer birdwatching tours. The reserve is also home to the only European colony of the fiercely protected African chameleon. In the other direction is ancient Pylos, where excavations have unveiled a large Mycenaean-era palace, popularly named Nestor’s Palace after the local king in the Iliad… To top it all, just the other side of the nature reserve is the perfect, quasi-circular curve of Voïdokoilia, one of Greece’s most gorgeous beaches, which is backed by sand dunes. The bird’s eye view of it from the ruins of Paleokastro (Old Castle) more than compensates for the necessary hour’s stiff climb up.
 
5. Ioannina, Epirus – Northern Greece
The capital of the north-west mainland region of Epirus, facing the Pindus mountain range on the banks of Lake Pamvotis, Ioannina is a chief contender for Greece’s prettiest non-coastal town. It achieved prominence in the early 1800s under the rule of the notorious Ali Pasha, who made a lasting impression on Lord Byron. Although 2022 marks 200 years since his death while fighting Sultan Mahmud II, his spirit never abandoned the town. The current fortress was restored during his reign and the mosques he worshipped in, the palace he built and his tomb are all city landmarks. A 19-mile tour of the lake by bike offers views of the town and the mountains. A second day could be spent at the island on the lake, reached by passenger boat, with its fishing village, Ali Pasha Museum and seven Byzantine monasteries. A 40-minute drive away is Metsovo, Greece’s mountain capital, bordering Pindos national park. In the summer it’s a hub for adrenaline junkies, with mountain biking, hiking, canyoning, kayaking and rafting on the River Aöos. As the birthplace of two of Greece’s major philanthropists, it has a remarkable cultural heritage, punctuated by the Averoff Gallery of Greek Painting and the Tositsa Museum of Folk Art.

6. Athos region, Central Macedonia – Northern Greece
The Athos region in eastern Halkidiki is best known for the Holy Mountain and its monks’ republic, but the monastic administration covers only two-thirds of the peninsula. The rest is an amalgamation of dozens of semi-deserted beaches, lush hikes, archaeological sites such as Stagira, birthplace of Aristotle, and peaceful seaside towns including Ierissos and Olymbiada. The lodestar of attractions is, of course, Mount Athos (only male visitors permitted), which can be circumnavigated by boat, with its icon galleries, but another showstopper is Ammouliani, a pinch-me island of pristine beaches. Here Alykes, a wide bay with sand the colour and consistency of milled oats, is one of Greece’s best-kept secrets, while many find the translucent shallows of Megali Ammos, one mile east, even more enticing. Snorkellers can book excursions to the crystalline waters of the rocky Drenia archipelago. Hikers should attempt at least part of the meandering 18-mile Aristotelian Walk (according to legend, he was a great walker), a well-signposted, shaded woodland trail from New to Ancient Stagira . 

Read the full Guide in the related edition of theGuardian.com